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Key strategies for 3D printing with TGM-7 resin

Updated on February 9, 2021


TGM-7 3D printing resin is designed specifically to 3D print functional tabletop and gaming miniatures. Such miniatures that can be used on a daily basis for tabletop gaming without fear of easy breakage.  This is our guide for AmeraLabs TGM-7 3D printing resin. It covers key strategies that we recommend to follow in order to avoid failures and get the best results. 


Our TGM-7 3D printing resin is dedicated to LCD/LED based 3D printers like Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K, Phrozen Transform, Anycubic Mono X, Elegoo Mars, Elegoo Saturn, Peopoly Phenom or Zortrax Inkspire. These printers use LCD screen as a mask with underlying LED light source to project layers on the bottom of resin VAT with FEP film. TGM-7 3D printing resin is not suitable for SLA laser based printers like Formlabs, Peopoly Moai or DLP printers like Asiga, Nexdent, Kudo3D Titan. 

Due to inherent toughness and flexibility, some specific 3D printing strategies should be followed when printing with this resin. Below we present you with a list of key instructions we recommend to follow in order to avoid common failures. Remember, these are just specific instructions for TGM-7 3D printing resin. Consequently, you should also continually apply all fundamental SLA 3D printing techniques.

Use attachment layer and make it thin 

As we emphasize and explain in our blog post, we suggest using thinner attachment layer for SLA 3D printing. For TGM-7 3D printing resin, we recommend keeping the thickness of raft equal to 2-4 normal layers. So, if you plan to print at 50um, go ahead and make thickness of raft 100-200um. TGM-7 3D printing resin is strong and non-brittle, so there should be no difficulties removing attachment layer together with the object from the build plate. 

Thickness of attachment layer

Use appropriate cure times for initial layers 

TGM-7 3D printing resin exhibits very good adhesion to standard steel or aluminum build plates. Use 10-15x your regular exposures for initial/raft layers. So if you plan to cure at 5s and 50um layers, use at least 50-75s exposures for initial/raft layers. However, the exposure may depend on your machine, thus consider this individually based on your experience and results.

Increased exposures of attachment layer

Sometimes too long exposures on printers with monochrome LCDs and with very powerful light sources can result in quite severe adherence to FEP film of your VAT. So judge settings based on your regular strategies.

Avoid large overhangs by all means

TGM-7 3D printing resin is quite flexible. However, flexibility of material brings up one key point that has to be taken into consideration: avoid large, flat overhangs with high-cross sectional areaEven if they are well supported

Such large layer area overhangs tend to cause issues, when the very first layer is cured. It gets separated from FEP film and as it is very thin (around 50um or 100um), it is also very flimsy and flexible. It results in waves and unevenness which makes it difficult for the next layer to adhere, especially if it is also large and flat. To better understand that, see image below. 

Issues caused by large overhangs

Generally, it is not that difficult to solve it. We recommend slightly adjusting orientation of your object. Such simple change in orientation can dramatically change the pattern of cross-sectional area of all layers of the object. Even a slight change in orientation (10-15 degrees) can bring significant difference. 

Likewise, such intricate changes of an angle do not dramatically alter the overall supporting strategy of your object. Here are a few examples for you to consider below. 

Slight change in object orientation

Always hollow your objects and place drainage holes properly

Hollowing is very important technique in SLA 3D printing. This not only helps to save material, but also makes newly-cured layer separation from FEP film way easier. 

We recommend to use wall thickness of 1.5-2mm.  

Also, remember to position your vent holes of hollowed object properly and carefully. This is critically important point which applies not only when using TGM-7 3D printing resin. 

Vent holes (also called drainage holes) have to be placed in a way that allows all isopropyl alcohol (that is trapped inside) run out during cleaning. There are positions of vent holes that are inherently wrong. 

Vent holes placement in 3D printing object

By placing vent holes in positions marked red, you risk of trapping IPA in the model. Especially if you do not rotate it very thoroughly during the cleaning. But even active rotation might not help to get all IPA out. If you leave trapped IPA inside of the model for prolonged periods it will affect 3D printed object. Trapped IPA will eventually alter final polymer and will cause significant damage to your 3D prints like fractures, warping and loss of dimensions. IPA is a solvent and it can have significant impact on final properties when exposed for prolonged periods of time. See our blog post about that here. 

However, by placing vent holes in the locations, marked green, you have a natural way for IPA to run out of the model. In this way you avoid trapping it inside and causing significant damage to the 3D printed model’s structure.  

All in all, it is critical to get all isopropyl alcohol (IPA) out of the model. Only then you can expect long-lasting and sustainable performance not only with TGM-7 3D printing resin, but also with all 3D printing resins. 

Apply correct strategy of supports

As always, importance of proper supports strategy is significant. Incorrect parameters of supports can lead to constant failures and frustration. But no worries! We have some key recommendations in order to ease this stress for you! 

Due to inherent flexibility of TGM-7 3D printing resin, we recommend implementing following aspects into your strategy of supports when printing with TGM-7 3D printing resin. 

  1. Set thicker struts for supports. We recommend thickness of around 1.5-1.8mm.  
  1. We recommend starting off with tip diameter of 0.5 – 0.8mm.
Support tips and struts
  1. Always use inter-connected support algorithms. 
  1. Start with higher density 80% – 90%. 

You can adjust and push the limits of these settings after you get more experience with TGM-7 3D printing resin. We always recommend more conservative settings in order to get decent success at the beginning. 

Support configuration files for Chitubox Slicer  

This profile has three support modes and we suggest using them based on your specific 3D printed object and intended results. 

Medium mode. This profile is our go-to profile for a start. It has balanced support tip thickness and works well for experienced users as well as beginners. To ease the stress of support removal, we highly recommend having pliers with you all the time. 

Light mode.  This is the profile with thinnest tips. Support removal is easy, but it requires way more planning and optimized orientation that produces lowest-possible cross-sectional area of layers. It is best for small objects, although we have seen people printing quite big ones as well. We highly recommend this profile only when you become familiar with TGM-7 and get decent success rate already. 

Heavy mode. This profile has thicker support tips than other configurations. It is a good option for larger objects with higher cross-sectional area. Thicker support tips help to preserve correct geometries and withstand forces of separation from FEP or PDMS during 3D printing. It is more forgiving to mistakes, but it is also a bit more difficult to remove them. 

Recommended density for all profiles ranges from 70% to 95%. Do manual adjustments if needed. We suggest adjusting density based on your needs as sometimes number of supports generated for some objects is way too high.

You can get Chitubox profile for TGM-7 here

Exposures times for TGM-7 3D printing resin

We recommend following specific exposures times when printing with TGM-7. Find you printer and its settings here.

Cleaning recommendations for TGM-7 3D printing resin

AmeraLabs TGM-7 material has a bit higher viscosity than most 3D printing resins. However, it should not make cleaning of printed parts with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) more difficult.  

TGM-7 3D printing resin should not be left submerged in solvents for extended periods of time. By all means do not leave objects submerged in IPA or any other liquid for more than 40 minutes. Doing so might ruin your models and affect final properties of polymer material. 

If you own Anycubic Wash & Cure station, you can easily clean TGM-7 prints with 12 minute cleaning session.

If you prefer to clean with ordinary IPA baths, here is our easy 4 steps cleaning procedure: 

  1. After taking your printed object off the build plate leave it submerged in the IPA bath for 10 minutes
  1. Swirl the IPA bath with the printed object in it actively for another 1 minute.  
  1. After swirling, leave it still, but fully submerged for another 10 minutes. At this point it would be wise to change IPA to a clean one. 
  1. Finally, swirl the bath actively again for 1 minute.  

Evaluate cleaning results and repeat this procedure only once (if needed). 

If you prefer cleaning with ultrasonic cleaner, we recommend putting the printed object into the container with IPA, close it well and put that container into the ultrasonic cleaner filled with water. Let it sit in an ultrasonic cleaner for no more than 10 minutes without additional heating

IPA and ultrasonic cleaner

Last, but not least, one more tip from our side. We learned that if you have intricate cavities that need to be cleaned, following our 4 steps procedure tends to produce better results than short ultrasonic cleaning. 

Post-cure immediately after cleaning and drying

Right after 3D printing TGM-7 3D material actually tends to be softer than most other resins. It is mandatory to post-cure it in UV chamber to complete the curing process. As material is non-brittle, you can also post-cure with supports and remove them later. We recommend to post-cure TGM-7 printed parts for at least 15 minutes – 1 hour (50W of 395-405nm LEDs). It is very important to post-cure parts immediately when they are dry after cleaning, i.e. long storage of raw, not post-cured parts is highly not recommended. 

After proper post-curing surface of TGM-7 printed object is completely non-sticky and difficult to scratch. 

Coating 

Printed objects can also be coated with most modelling primers for further painting. We have successfully tested Citadel Chaos Black and Citadel Corax White.

3D printed object with TGM-7 3D printing resin and the primer

Please also be aware of several recommendations and warnings that relate to TGM-7 3D printing resin: 

Properties of final 3D printed and post-cured objects with this material can vary if exposed to extreme conditions such as high humidity, extremely dry air, high temperatures (>60C) for prolonged periods of time.

Objects, 3D printed with TGM-7 material, should not be used for models and parts that will constantly be in contact with water, organic solvents etc.

DO NOT leave this material inside of the resin tray inside of your 3D printer for prolonged periods of time. We learned that even with most 3D printing resins, such long storage without air circulation can lead to deterioration of coatings. This could happen when coatings, that were used for 3D printer, are not resistant to chemicals enough. 

That is all you need to know in order to start printing with TGM-7 material. If you have any questions, do not hesitate to drop us an email or contact us via Facebook. We will respond as soon as possible. 

Visit our shop to get your TGM-7 resin!

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